// l<lb 



5^^ 





The New 



Tatting of To-Day 

Pul)lished by 

The Ladies' World 



Edited by Louise S. Hauck 

Who tvill be glad to answer any letters relating to these 
designs, if a stamped, self-addressed envelope is enclosed 



Price 10 Cents 



The McClure Publications, Inc., 251 Fourth Avenue, New York 



<;(ipyrif!hl. 1916, by McCIurc Pub.. Inc. 



^. 



-*H(- 



Directions for Butterflies on Cover 

NOTE: p denotes picot and k denotes knot 



Two-thread Tatting. The bars are made with the shuttle on the 
spool thread, and rliiys are all made with the shuttle. Always be 
Km a bar with one k, end with one k and a k between each p, unless 
directed otherwise. The same holds good with a ring with a given 
number of ps. It is best to make a k after each join before going on 
making ps. 

The body of the butterfly is crocheted. Before you try to make 
the body lor the butterfly, it is wise to have a little practice. Just 
make a few rolls and then it will be easier to make the perfect body. 
When you come to the place where you draw the thread through 
the roll on your needle, you will find that it is easier to get the stitch 
throutih this roll, if you do not take the thread to he drawn through 
it too closely to the work. Hold the roll between the left hand fore- 
finger and thumb, keeping it well under control; and there you are, 
your stitch will go through without any trouble. 

Directions for Making the Body 

M.\KE a chain of 22 stitches. Do not have the stitches tight, 
just loose enough so that the crochet needle will go com- 
fortably through. Now wind the thread around the needle 12 
times. You have to be careful that the first stitch on the needle 
does not untwist. If it does you will not have the correct number of 
stitches for the roll, and then the first stitch will become long 
and the roll will not be perfect. You must hold on to the first 
stitch. Go into the fourth chain-stitch, draw the thread through. 
Hold the roll firm between the forefinger and thumb of the left 
hand, thread over needle up away from the chain-stitch, now care- 
fully draw the thread slowly through the roll. Now your stitch will 
be to the right of the roll, and the thread at the left. Thread over 
the needle and draw it through the stitch on your needle. Draw the 
stitch tight enough so that the roll will curve. Repeat this roll, tak- 
ing the next chain-stitch and bringing the thread back to the right 
as directed before. Now make 2 rolls 15 times over the needle and 
proceed as directed. Then 7 rolls 20 times over the needle. Then 
1 roll 10 times over the needle. This is the dividing line between 
the head and body, 2 rolls 25 times overthe needle, 3 rolls. 30 times 
over the needle, then 1 roll 25 times over the needle. Now bring the 
thread to the right. Chain 3 into last of the 22 chains. Chain 2, 
turn, work on the wrong side, go in center of the 3 chain with a sin- 
gle crochet. Chain 2, single crochet over the 2 first threads between 
the rolls. Chain 2, proceed as directed until you have taken all the 
threads that there are on the wrong side. Without making a chain 
go into the center of the chain at the first roll. Chain 3 very close 
and go into the same stitch. This in the tip end of the body. Now 
slip-stitch all the way around the body to make it even so that one 
side will be exactly as wide as the other. 

Making the First Wing 

YlIU begin with a ring that is the eye of the butterfly. If you 
have just wound your shuttle, there will be no need for you to 
tie a knot. But if your shuttle is full, and you need to tie the 
spool of ball thread to the shuttle, then make a square knot. 

King, 5 ks, 1 p, 5 ks, close. Space about a quarter of an inch. 
Ring. 3 ks, 2 ps with 3 ks between each p, close. Turn the ps to- 
ward you. Bar. 5 ps. Turn ring up, repeat the ring. Turn, bar, 5 
PS, Turn, repeat the ring, making 4 ks between the ps. Turn. Bar. 

4 ps. Turn, repeat the ring with 5 ks between each p. Turn, Bar, 
7 ps. Turn, Ring,5ps (do not forget that you begin the bar or ring 
with a k, a k between each p, and end with ak), join in the first p of 
small ring, 2 ps, 1 long p, 2 ps, one long p, 7 ps, close. Turn. Bar, 7ps, 
join to the center of the 7 ps of ring. Bar, 7 ps. Turn, King, 7 ps, 
join in the first long p of large ring, 5 ks, 1 p, 5 ks, close. Space, 3 
ps, join in the p between the 5 ks; S ks, 1 p, 5 ks, join to long p, 5 
ks, join to p of small ring, (This making the second join in the ring 
at the bar.) 3 ps, close. Space, 3 short ps, without a k between the 
p, join in the center p of the 3 in ring. 3 short ps, join in the first p 
of small ring at bar, 3 short ps, 1 long p, 3 short ps, close. Space, 
3 ks, 1 p, 3 ks, join to the long p, 3 ks, 3 ps with 3 ks between each p, 
close. Space. 5 ks, join to first p, 5 ps, join to the next p of same 
small ring, 5 ps, close. Space, 3 ks, 1 i), 3 ks, join to second p, 3 ks. 
join to the first p of small ring, 3 ks, 3 ps, close. Space, 3 ks, join 
to the third p, 3 ks, join to the next p of same ring, 3ks. close. Turn. 
Space, 3 ks, join in the first siiace, 3 ks, f p, 3 ks, closfe. Space. 5 
ks, join in p of small ring, 1 p, join in the next space, 3 ps, close. 
Space, 7 short ps without a k between the ps, join in the center of 
the 3 ps, 2 more short ps, join in next space, 4 short ps, 1 long p, 4 
short PS, close. Space, 5 ks, join in the long p, 1 k, 1 p, 1 k, join in 
next space, 3 ps, close. 

Join the shuttle thread to the center of the 3 ps. Space. 3 ps, 
join in the next space, 5 ps, 1 long p, 5 ps, close. Space, 3 ks, join 
in the second p, 3 ks, 1 p, 3 ks, close. Space, 4 ks, join to p of small 
ring, 4 ks. join in second p, 4 ks, 1 p, 4 ks, close. Space, 3 ks, join in 
p of last small ring, 3 ks, join to long p, 3 ks, 1 p, 3 ks, close. 

Join shuttle thread at bar. Bar, 5 ps, join between the first 2 
rings. Bar. 5 ps, join between the next 2 rings, repeat the bar. Turn, 

5 short PS without a k between the ps, join to first space, 3 ks, join 
in next space, 4 short ps, 1 long p, 4 short ps, close. Turn, Bar, 5 ps. 



Turn, ring 2 ks, 1 p, 2 ks, join in long p. 2 ks, join in next space, 
3 PS. 1 long p, 3 ps, close. Turn, Bar, 5 ps, join to long p. Turn, 
3 ks, 1 p, 3 ks, 1 p, 3 ks, join in next space, 9 short ps without a k 
between, close. Turn, Bar, 5 ps. Turn. Ring, 5ks, 1 p. 5 ks, joinin 
same space where you joined the last ring, 5 ks, 1 p, 5 ks, close, A little 
space, 3 ks, join in p of ring you just made, 3 ks, join in next space, 

3 ks, 1 p, 3 ks, close. Space, 3 ks, join to p of last ring you made, 3 
short ps with a k between each p, join in the same space where you 
joined the last ring, 3 short p, close. Space, ring, 3 ks, join to center 
of the 3 ps, 3 ks, join in next space, 3 ks, t p, 3 ks, close. Space, 
join shuttle thread in p of last ring, the first ring you made after 
you made the eye. This completes the first or upper wing. 

Directions for Lower Wing 

TURN eye down and tip of wing up pointing to the left. Join 
shuttle thread in the first space. Now bring the spool or ball 
thread down to meet this shuttle thread, draw the spool or ball 
thread, whichever you are using, through the first space and pass 
the spool or ball through this loop, proceed making these joins until 
you come down to the shuttle thread. You will have to be careful 
to have the thread you are bringing down loose so that they will 
not pucker the work. Hold the eye down, make a bar with 5 ps, 
join at the base of third ring, (The base of ring is the place where 
the ring is closed.) Turn eye up. Ring 2 ks, 3 ps with two ks be- 
tween each p, close. Turn eye up, repeat the bar, join to the center 
P of the bar of finished wing. Turn eye down, 4 ks, 1 p, 4 ks, 1 p, I 
k, I long p, 1 k, I p, 4 ks, 1 p, 4 ks, close. Turn eye down, repeat 
the bar, join the second p of next bar of finished wing. Turn eye 
down, ring 7 ps, join the first p of ring you made last, 4 ps, 1 long p, 

4 ps, close. Turn eye down. Bar, 7 ps, join to long p. Bar, S ps. 
Turn eye up. Ring, 7 short ps without a k between the ps, join to 
third p of large rint, 4 short ps, 1 long p, 4 short ps, close. Space, 
3 ks, 1 p, 3 ks, join 10 long ps, 3 ks, 1 p, 3 ks, close. Space, join 
shuttle thread to p of ring you have just made, little space, 3 ks, join 
to second short p, 3 ks, 1 p. 3 ks, join in long p, 3 ks, 1 p, 3 ks, close. 
Space, 2 ks, join to p of ring you just made, 2 ks, 1 p, 2 ks, close. 
.\ little space, 2 short ps with 1 k between the p, 3 ps, join to second 
p of ring, 3 ps, join to first p of small ring, 5 ps, close. Pull this ring 
a little oblong. Space, .S ks, 1 p, 5 ks, join to third p, 5 ks, 1 p. 5 ks. 
close. Space, 2 ks, 1 p. 2 ks, join to picot of ring you just made, 2 ks, 

1 p, 2 ks, f p, 2 ks, close, leaving a little space around this ring. 
Join to second p. Space, 2 ks, join to first p of large ring, 2 ks. 1 p, 

2 ks, close. Space, 3 ks, join to p of small ring, 3 ks, join to second 
p of last ring, 3 ks, 1 p, 3 ks, close. Leaving a tiny space, join 
shuttle thread at the beginning of the bar of this second ring. Turn 
eye down, leaving a space, join shuttle thread to first space and the 
p of ring. Space, 2 ks, join in the next space, 2 ks, 1 p, 2 ks, close. 
Space, join shuttle thread in space between the p and the base of 
the tiny ring. Space, 5 ps, join in space and the p at sp.ace, 3 ps, 1 
long p, 3 PS, close. Join shuttle thread to long p, leaving a space 
so as to keep the p of ring free, A tiny space, 4 short ps without a 
k between the p, join to space and p, 4 short ps, join in next space, 

3 ks, join in next space, Sshort ps, close. Space, Join shuttle thread 
in p where there is already a join, a tiny space, join shuttle thread be- 
tween the joined p and the base of ring, a tiny space. King, 5ks, 5ps, 
close. Join shuttle thread to center of the 5 ps, leaving a space thread 
around the p, 2 ks, join in second p, 2 ks, 1 long p, 2 ks, close. Space, 
3 ks, join in long p, 3 ks, join in space between the joins and the base 
of the ring, 3 ks, close. Space, 2 ks, join in picot, 2 ks, close. Join 
shuttle thread at bar. Turn. I3ar5 ps, join between the second and 
third small rings, repeat the bar, join in second space. Turn eye 
up, 9 short ps, without a k between, join in first space, .S ks, join in 
next space, 4 short ps. without a k between, 1 long p, 4 more short 
ps, 1 long p, 4 short ps, close. Turn eye down, bar 5 ps, ring, 5 ps, 
join to first long p, 3 ps, join in next long p, 3 ps, join in next space, 

5 ps, close, Turn eye down. King, 5 short ps without a k between 
the p, 1 long p, 5 short ps, close. Bar, 5 ps. Turn eye up. King 3 
ks, join the center of the S ps. 3 ks, join in next space (between the 
two rings with the p), 3 ks, 1 p, 3 ks, close. Turn eye down, bar, 5 
PS, join in next space, bar. 5 ps, join in next space, over the two 
threads. Cut off the two threads and tie with a square knot, then 
cut ofl the ends. This completes the second or lower wing. 

Sew the wings to body, then crochet the chain in the eyes,^ 
Make a chain of 25 s!i[)-stitch back of the chain, going in the sixth 
chain-stitch, cut off the thread and leave enough to sew the end 
through to the wrong side of the linen. 

To Make the Half Butterfly 

IF you use the butterfly with the one set of wings, you will then 
crochet a chain of Ifi and going back to the fourth chain stitch 
with a slip-stich, .\lso leaving the ends to sew to through the 
linen. Make three legs and sew them so that they bend at the sixth 
stitch. Sew the body on the wrong side so that it will not be Hat. 
The lower end of the body may be shaped as you sew it to the linen. 
Sew the butterfly through every picot. Cut out the lines very care- 
fully from under the wings, quite close to the sewing and overcast 
this raw edge with very close stjiches. 



OCT 18 1916 






Page 3 



<^'> 



^ 



-b' 



The Art of Making Tatting 

By Louise S. Hauck 
p means picot k means kiuu 



IN order to learn easily and quickly, and without 
trying one's patience too much, in learning, how to 
make tatting, it will be wise to read the follow- 
ing thoughtfully and carefully. The knots of which 
the tatting is made consist of two stitches. These 
stitches form little loops through which the shuttle 
thread must run freely so as not to confine it. You 
will see in starting the work the consistency of this 
need. Here is a fact which must be absolutely re- 
membered in trying to learn. That the stitches are 
made with the left-hand thread and not with the 
shuttle thread. The shuttle is where the supply 
comes from. 



around the left-hand fingers, the shuttle in the right 
hand with the thread at the right of the shuttle, 
holding out the thread of the shuttle with the middle 
finger of the right hand. 

Now you will make the first stitch of the knot. 
Put the shuttle down in the ring against the space 
thread of the left hand, let the thread pass up be- 
tween the forefinger and shuttle, then over the shuttle 
and down between the shuttle and thumb. Now 
comes the knack of making the first little loop. 

Give the shuttle thread a little jerk, at the same 
time bending the left-hand fingers a little, holding 
the shuttle thread firmly; you will see the little loop 





In positinn for Jirst stitch 



First half of first knot 





In position for second stitch 



Completed knot of under and over stitches 



How to hold the left-hand thread and shuttle 

TAKE the end of the thread between the forefinger 
and thumb, form a ring around the left hand, 
spreading out the rest of the fingers a little. You 
will now have a space between the forefinger and 
middle finger. In this space all the stitches are 
made that are used when working with one thread. 
Now take the shuttle between the forefinger and 
thumb of the right hand, with the thread at the 
righ*^ of the shuttle. Have the thread between the 
left hand and the shuttle about six inches long. If 
you have the thread too long it will bother you, be- 
cause you will have to hold the thread out with the 
middle fingei of the right hand. Now here is the 
position for the first stitch. A ring of the thread 



will immediately fall in place. The loop will have 
the shuttle thread ruiming through it, the left-hand 
thread will be over the loop, the end thread will then 
be underneath. The little loop is now brought back 
to the forefinger and thumb of the left hand by 
opening the fingers of the left hand. You will see 
that the loop will slip back easily enough. Hold the 
first stitch firmly between the forefinger and thumb 
of the left hand. All the knots are gently held be- 
tween the forefinger and thumb as you work. 

The second position for holding the shuttle in mak- 
ing the second stitch is thus: Allow a loop to form 
in the ring of the left-hand thread, and pass the 
space thread up between the thumb and shuttle, 
over the shuttle and down between the shuttle and 
forefinger; give the shuttle thread a little jerk; at the 



Page i 



same time close the left-hand fingers, hold the shuttle 
thread firmly and the loop will at once fall in place. 
Now look at this stitch carefully. (Of course you 
will understand that the shuttle must be worked in 
the loop you have formed with the shuttle thread.) 
You will see that the shuttle thread runs through 
the little loop, and the left-hand thread will be under- 
neath the little loop. Now open the fingers of the 
left hand and let the stitch come close to the first 
one made and you will have one complete knot. All 
tatting, no matter how elaborate, is made of these 
knots, whether it be made of one or two threads. 
A careful study of these directions will give you a 
clear understanding of how to make the tatting shown 
in the following pages. 

How to make the Picot 

WHEN you make the first stitch of the knot, do 
not bring the stitch close to the last knot made, 
but leave a space long or short as directed, then 
make the second stitch and bring that close to the 



right size as you work. The little finger will come 
in play and do the work for you. In this way: You 
will learn that by giving the thread a jerk with the 
little finger it will make the ring on the left hand 
larger and so, without your knowing it, this will take 
place. All the fingers of the left hand will come in 
play as you go on with the work, and by degrees you 
will learn to work so that you will be able to talk, too. 

How to work with two threads 

WHEN you work with two threads, you generally 
begin with a ring. When you are winding the 
shuttle to work with two threads, you will then not 
have need to tie the ends. When your shuttle gives 
out and it needs re-winding, leave the end quite long 
so as to tie the end of the shuttle thread to it. This 
is done with a square knot. 

To make a square knot 

TIE the ends close to the work. Lay the left-hand 
thread over that of the right, put the left-hand 




1 — One complete knot open 2 — Complctr hint closed 3 — Six knots 

n/nd nnp. -mVo/ hpforp hpinn drniinr ij.it L — Ctn.p. r.aim.nlptp. rinn 



and one picot before being drawn up 



U — One complete ring 



first and bring the knot with the picot close to those 
already made. 

When you find that the hand thread is getting 
small, just give the thread of the left hand a pull 
downward from the forefinger and thumb. As you 
go on with the work you will also find that it is best 
to go gently, even if you can work fast. It is not 
necessary to draw the thread hard in working. You 
will find that the knots will look more even if you do 
not pull your work too hard. It is best to give the 
rings a second pull so that they will not open later 
on, as you work. It is quite impossible to close the 
ring properly in the first attempt. You will have to 
pull the thread too hard and are liable to break the 
shuttle thread if you attempt to close the ring 
entirely with the first attempt. By-and-bye you 
will learn unconsciously to keep your ring just the 



thread under the thread with the left hand, take the 
left-hand thread in your left hand, lay the right-hand 
thread over it, pass the left-hand end through the 
ring you have formed, take hold of the end with the 
right hand and draw the knot so that you can have a 
good look at it. You will have a loop within a loop. 
Draw this knot just as close to your work as possible, 
and draw both ends at once so as to make a neat 
knot. Now cut off the ends. 

After you have made the ring that precedes the 
work on the second thread (work made with the 
spool thread is called a bar), if the bar has only a 
few knots, wind the spool thread, holding it the same 
as the shuttle thread, over the outstretched fingers 
of the left hand and wind it a number of times around 
the little finger to hold it firm. When you need to 
make, for example, a bar with five picots, it is best 



Page 5 



to first wind tlie spool tliread over the middle finger, 
then over the little. If your directions call for a bar 
of seven picots. then yon may wind the spool thread 
around the middle finger, then the third finger, and 
lastly around the little finger. This will prevent you 
from unwinding the thread around the little finger 
and rewinding in order to give you enough thread to 



complete the bar. Care must be taken when work- 
ing with two threads so that you turn your work 
properly, or you will make the bar in the wrong 
place. For example, if you are going to make a 
bar with a ring at either end, you will have to 
turn your work up or down as the case may recjuire. 
This you will have to determine. 



Directions for Making Ring Tatting 



SIX knots, one picot. 
Six knots, one pioot, 
six knots, one picot, six 
knots. Draw shuttle 
thread up tightly so as 
to form a single perfect 
ring. Now, to make 
the second ring: 

No. 3 — Begin by leav- 
ing a little space from the first ring. Six knots. 
With a crochet hook, or a good-sized pin, pull the 
hand thread through the last picot of the ring just 
made, and put the shuttle through this loop and 
draw the thread close to the six knots previously 
made. Thus continue to make rings for the plain 




design of tatting. The 
ring with three picots in 
the center is made with- 
out a knot between each 
picot. 

No. J, — The ring with 
five picots is made begin- 
ning with five knots, 
one picot, five knots, 
three picots with knot between each picot, five knots, 
one picot, five knots, close. 

No. 5 — Three knots, one picot, three knots, five 
picots, one knot between each picot, three knots, one 
picot, three knots, close, three knots. Join to first 
picot of ring just completed and proceed to finish ring. 



Simple Edges and Insertions for Handkerchiefs, Infants' Garments and Underwear 



No. 6— Edge— Four 
knots between each 
picot in the small 
rings, eight knots 
between the single 
picots and one knot 
between each of the 
five picots, turn and 
repeat tlielargering, 
joining at the first 
picot. The insertion 

isthelargeringthrough whichyoucanrun ribbon. Sew 
on the garment as it is, or crochet a single stitch in each 
of the five picots with five in chain between the rings. 




No. 6 — Erlge and Insertion 



No. 7 — Insertion — 
Four knots, one pi- 
cot, four knots, three 
picots with one knot 
between each picot, 
four knots, one picot, 
four knots, close. 
Turn, repeat the ring. 
Turn, four knots, 
join to picot four 
knots, three picots 
with one knot between each picot, turn. Proceed 
working these rings, joining each to the preceding 
one after making the first four knots of each ring. 



No. 7 — Insertion 



No. S — Clover leaf 



No. 8 — Clover Leo/— Six knots between each of the 
picots. The rings must be made close together. 





No. 10 — Clover leaf insertion 
and edge, with two threads 



No. 10 — Clover' leaf insertion and edge tvith two 
threads — Begin with a small ring. Four knots, one 
picot, four knots, five picots with one knot between 
each picot, four knots, one picot. draw together. 
With the s])Ool thread work six knots, then make the 
second ring like the first. Then the bar with six knots. 
Proceed to make the clover leaf given before with six 
knots, one picot, six knots, one picot, six knots, one 
picot, six knots, one picot, six knots, close and repeat 
three times to make three rings of leaf. Repeat bar 
wi*l. six knots, then two small rings, then a clover leaf. 




Xo. !)- 



-Insertion with two 
threads 



No. !) — Insertion — Four knots between each picot 
in the rings — six knots in the connecting bars. 




No. II Edge and heading 
for underwear 



No. 11 — Edge and insertion. Tiro threads — Ring: 
Six knots one picot, four knots one picot, one knot 
one picot, one knot one picot, one knot one picot, four 
knots one i)icot, six knots, close ring. With the spool 
thread: F.ight knots, one picot. eight knots. With 
the shuttle: Six knots, join to the first picot toward 
you at the left and proceed to work like the first 
ring. Then proceed to work on the spool thread 
as the preceding bar. There are six chain cro- 
cheted between each picot in the centers of each 
bar. 



Page 6 




A 36-inch centerpiece decorated with butterjiies, and edge No. 8, made from 20 thread 



Butterfly No. 2. Two Threads 

THE body is crocheted with a fine, straight steel 
needle, and made as directed for butterfly No. 1. 
Directions for mitking the wings — A word about 
spacing: It would be utterly impossible for me to 
give you the exact length of thread for each space 
required in making this beautiful buttei-fly. You will 
have to look at the print of the butterfly, and use 
your good judgment. The spaces may be easily de- 
fined if you will read ahead a bit, and find out how 
large the ring will be when finished, and thus leave a 
space accordingly. If you make a few spaces, you 
will then see just how much you are to leave for the 
space which the following ring will occupy. You be- 
gin one-half of the butterfly with the eye. If 
you have just filled your shut- 
tle there is no need for you 
to tie a knot, your threads are 
ready to go to work. If you 
have a shuttle and you want to 
add the spool or ball, tie a square 
knot, and cut off the ends close 
to the knot. Taking the knot 
between the thumb and fore- 
finger of the left hand, make a 
ring. Rings are all made with 
the shuttle thread alone, unless 
directed otherwise. Bars are 
all made with the spool or ball 
thread wound around the little 
finger of the left hand and the 
shuttle thread runs through the 
knots of the bars. All rings and 
bars are begun with a knot. 
There is one knot between each 




Nightgowns, chemise-yokes, combinations and 

collars, as well as centerpieces and towels are 

made attractive by tl. ye butterjiies 



picot unless directed. Make a long picot between 
the short picots. Always end the short picots with 
one knot. A knot follows a long picot, then the rest 
of the short picots follow. 

Make a ring with 5 knots, 1 p, 5 knots, close. This 
is the eye. Leaving a tiny space, ring 3 knots, 1 p, 
3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, close. Turn this ring so that 
the p points toward you and the base of the ring from 
you (the base of a ring is the place where the ring is 
closed). Now make a bar with 3 ps, turn the ps of 
the bar toward you, make a ring, 3 knots, join to the 
p of the ring you made last; 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, 
close. Turn, bar, 3 ps. Turn, 3 knots, join to p of 
small ring, 3 knots, 1 p, quite long, 3 knots, close. 
Turn, bar, 3 ps, turn, ring, 4 knots, join to the long p, 
4 knots, 1 p, quite long p, 4 knots, 
close. Turn, bar, 5 ps. Turn, ring, 
4 knots, join to the long p, 2 
knots, 1 long p, 2 knots, 1 long 
p. 4 knots, close. Turn, bar, 7 
ps. Turn, ring, 7 ps, join to the 
first long p. 3 ps, 1 long p, 3 ps, 
1 long p, 3 ps, close. Turn, bar, 
7 ps, join to the first long p. 
Bar, 7 ps. Turn, ring, 7 short 
ps without a knot between each 
p, join to the next long p, 4 
knots, join to long p of small 
ling, 4 short ps, 1 long p. 4 
short ps, close. Space, ring, 
3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, join to 
long p between the short ps, 3 
ps, join between the ring with 
the short ps and the next small 
ring, 3 ps, join between the 



Page If 



second and third small rings, 3 ps, close. Space, ring, 
5 short ps. without a knot between the ps, join be- 
tween tlie next 2 riiig:s. 5 more short ps, close. 
Space, ring, 5 knots, join to the center of the 5 short 
ps, 3 knots, join between the next two small rings, 
3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, close. Space, turn, 3 knots, 
join to p of last ring, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, close. 

Turn the wing up. Space, ring, 5 knots, join to 
second space, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, close. Leaving 
a space, thread around this ring you have just made, 
join the shuttle thread to the p. Beginning close at 
the join, 3 quite short ps, join between the ring with 
the short ps and the large ring, 7 ps, close. Space, 
ring, 5 ps, join to the center of the 7 ps, 3 
ps, join in the last space, 5 ps, 1 long p, 3 ps, 
close. Space, ring, 5 short ps without a knot be- 
tween, join to the first p from the base of the 
large ring, 3 short ps, 1 long p, 3 short ps, 1 long 
p, 3 short ps, close. Ring, space, 3 knots, join 
to the first long p, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, close. 
Ring, space, 4 knots, join to p of small ring, 4 
knots, join to long p, 4 knots, 1 p, 4 knots, close. 
Space, ring, 4 knots, join to p of small ring, 4 
knots, join between the 2 rings with ps, 4 knots, 
1 p, 4 knots, close. Space, ring, 3 knots, join 
to p of small ring, 3 knots, join to long p, 3 
knots, 1 p, 3 knots, close. Leaving a space, join 
shuttle thread to bar. Bar, 5 ps, join between the 
first 2 rings. Bar, 5 ps, join between the next 2 rings. 
Bar, 5 ps, join between the next 2 rings. Bar, 5 ps, 
join between the next 2 rings, bar, 5 
ps. Turn, ring, 5 ps, join between 
the first 2 rings, 3 knots, join in ^^f 

the next space, 3 knots, 1 long 
p, 3 knots, close. Bar, 3 ps, V^ 

join between the joined 
p and the base of the 
ring. Bar, 5 ps, join 
in the last space. 
Leaving a lit tie space, 
join shuttle thread 
to p of last ring, then 
join between the 2 
rings, then join at 



the bar. On these threads you will later on sew 
the body. 

Now join back to the bar with the 5 ps, thus mak- 
ing 2 threads which you will sew to the body. You 
will not make the threads any tighter than those that 
you made in the first joining; if you ilo the thread 
will pucker the rest of the work. Hold the wing up, 
the eye down and pointing to the left. Beginning 
close at the bar make a ring with 3 ps, having 2 
knots between each of the 3 ps, close. Leaving a 
space around this ring you liave just made, join the 
shuttle thread to the center of the 3 ps. Space, ling, 
3 knots, join to the next p of the same ring, 3 knots, 
join to the second p of bar, 3 knots, 1 long p, 3 knots, 
close. Space, ring, 3 knots, join to long p, 2 knots, 
now bring up the spool thread through the second p 
of bar. Slip the shuttle through this loop and draw 
down the spool thread, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, close. 
Leaving a space, join shuttle thread to p of ring, 
then join to the last p of the same bar to which you 
made the other joins. Bar, 5 ps, turn, ring, 5 short 
ps, without a knot between, join in the first space, 
5 short ps without a knot between, join in the first 
space, 5 short ps, 1 long p, 5 short ps, close. Turn, 
bar, 5 ps. Turn, ring, 5 ps, join in the long p, 5 ps, 
1 long p, 5 ps, close. Turn, bar, 7 ps, join to the 
long p, bar, 7 ps. Turn, ring, 7 short ps, without a 
knot between, join to the center p of the 5, 3 short 
ps, 1 long p, 3 short ps, close. Space, join shuttle 
Ihreiul to long p. 

Without changing position of work, 
ring, space, 5 ps, join between the 
secoid ring and the ring with the 
shcit p, 3 ps, 1 long p, 3 ps, 
close. Space, ring, 5 knots, 
join to the center of the 
first 3 ps, 5 knots, join to 
long p, 3 knots, 1 p, 
3 knots, close. Leav- 
ing a space, join the 
shuttle thread to the 
p of ring, then with- 
out leaving a space, 
(Continued on page 8 




A beautiful clover-edge 
for a plate-doily, ceu tcr- 
piece, yoke or collar 
made from fine thread 

Clover Border 

MAKE a ring of 5 
knots, 6 p (al- 
ways with 1 knot be- 
tween in every case 
in these directions 
where ps are men- 
tioned), 5 knots, close. Now, continuing, attach an- 
other thread and make 8 knots, catch into first p of 
previous ring. 3 knots, catch into next p of first ring, 
3 knots, catch into next p, and continue until you 
have worked into each p of the ring, after which 
make 8 knots and close this outside ring. 

Now, with the single thread, make the small inner 
ring again; then continue with a double thread to 
make the outside ring. Continue with a third clover 
leaf, then fasten threads securely and cut them. 
Make sufficient of these clover leafs to go entirely 
around the doily or other article. 

Arrange the clover-leaves as shown in the illustra- 
tion, and sew them securely together. 



Madefroincoarse thread 

this would he effective mi 
towels, centerpieces and 
ninners of heavy linen 

Now, to make the 
stems, commence at 
one of the points 
where the leaves are 
sewed together, with 
2 threads. Make 6 
knots, 6 p, 6 knots, 
and attach thread at base of group of 3 leaves. 
Then continue with the double thread, making 6 knots, 
fasten thread through last p of previous half ring (or 
stem), 6 p, 6 knots, and fasten in next junction- 
point of clover-leaves. Continue in the same man- 
ner until you have gone entirely down the strip. 

The final edge may be done either with tatting or 
with crochet; the latter is quicker and far easier to 
sew to the linen, the tatting making a harder edge. 

For the tatting, one makes with the double thread, 
1 knot, catch into a p; 1 knot, catch into next p, 
etc., etc. 

For the crochet, make 1 chain into a p, 1 chain; 1 
chain into a p, 1 chain, etc., etc. 



Page 8 



Butterfly No. 2 {Continued from page 7) 



join between the ring with the short ps in small 
ring. 

Then join between the next 2 rings. Turn the fin- 
ished wing down and leave quite a space. Turn, 3 
ps, join in the space between the join and the base 
of the same ring (that is, the ring below the one with 
the ps), 2 ps, join in next space, 2 ps, join in next 
space, 1 knot, 1 long p, 5 ps, close. Do not draw 
this ring tight. It should be oblong. Space, 2 knots, 
join to the first p of the oblong ring (from the base 
of the oblong ring), 2 knots, 1 p, 2 knots, close. 
Space, 3 knots, join to p of small ring, 3 knots, join 
to the next p of oblong ring, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, 
close. Space, 3 knots, join to p of small ring, 3 



knots, join to long p, 3 knots, close. Space, 5 short 
ps, without a knot between the ps, join to last space, 
5 short ps, close. Join shuttle thread to bar, leav- 
ing a space long enough to go around the 5 short ps. 
Bar, 5 ps, join between the 2 first rings, bar, 5 ps, 
join between the next 2 rings, bar, 5 ps, join between 
the next 2 rings, bar, 3 ps, join between the large 
and small ring. Turn finished wing up, the eye point- 
ing to the right. Ring, 2 knots, 3 ps, join to next 
space, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, close. 
Turn, bar, 3 ps, join to first p of the ring you just made. 
Join in next space and p. Cut off ends, tie square 
knot, cut off close to the knot. You will now sew the 
wings to the body as directed for No. 1 butterfly. 



Dainty and fine for underwear or, 
coarser thread, for pillows 



Butterfly No. 3 

RING, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, close. Leaving a lit- 
tle space, ring, 3 knots, 2 ps with 3 knots be- 
tween the ps. Bar, make 3 knots, 3 ps, with 3 knots 
between each p, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, 1 long p, 3 
knots, 1 p, 3 knots, close. Turn the picots of this 
bar up, repeat this bar and join to long p. Repeat 
the first bar and ring, repeat the bar and join to long 
p of ring. Repeat the bar and join at base of ring. 
(Base of ring is where the ring is closed.) Hold the 
work so that the bars you made first are toward you. 
Repeat the bar and join to long p. Repeat the bar 
and join at the base of the ring. 
Repeat the bar and join between 
the base of the second ring you 
made and the bar thread. Join 
the shuttle thread to the center of 
the 3 ps of second ring. Bar, turn 
the eye down, repeat the same bar, 
and join to center p of bai\ Ring, 
1 knot, 5 ps. Join to center p of 
next bar, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, 
close. Leaving a space around the 
p, join the shuttle thread to the 
center of the 5 ps of ring. Re- 
peat the bar and join to the next 
p of same bar where you joined 
the last ring. Turn the eye to the 
left. Ring, 5 short ps, join to the center p of the 
next bar, 5 short ps, close. Turn, repeat the bar, 
join to center of the 5 short ps. Turn so that the 
eye points toward the left. Ring, 5 knots, join to 
the first p of the bar around the ring, 1 knot, join to 
the next p of same bar, 5 ps, close. Without chang- 
ing position of work repeat the bar. Ring. Turn, 7 
ps, join to center p of next bar, 7 ps, close. Turn 
eye down, repeat the bar, join to the center of the 7 
ps of ring. Turn, 7 short ps, join to the next p of 
same bar where you made a join before, 5 knots, join 
to center p of next bar, 7 short ps, close. Turn eye 
down, repeat the bar, join to the center of the 7 ps. 
Turn eye up, ring 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, join to p of 
same bar, 7 ps, close. Turn eye down, repeat the 
bar, join to the center of the 7 ps, repeat the bar, 
join at the base of the ring, repeat the bar, join in 
the last p of the last bar, leaving a space, join the 
spool thread to the center p of bar. Leaving a little 
space, join to center of next bar. Leaving another 
space, join to center of next bar. Space, ring, 6 ps, 
join to the next p of same bar, 3 ps, 1 long p, 3 ps, 
close. 

Turn the wing down and the eye to the right. Re- 
peat the bar, join to the long p, repeat the bar, join 
to the third p of bar, turn eye up, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 
knots, join between the bar and the base of the ring 
'vith the short ps, 3 knots, 1 long p, 3 knots, close. 




o_t 



Cut off thread ends quite long and tie a square knot, 
cut off the remaining ends. Now you are going to 
make the bars around this wing. Join the two threads 
between the second ring you made and the first bar. 
Be sure you tie a square knot. 

Holding the eye to the left, beginning close at the 
bar, make a bar, 5 ps, join to the center of the 3 ps 
of bar in the preceding row. Make 3 more bars, 
making tlie join in the center p of each bar — thus 
making 4 bars to this point, bar, 2 ps, join in next p 
of same bar. Without changing position of woi'k, 
ring, 3 short ps, 1 long p, 3 short ps, close. Repeat 
the bar, join in ne.xt p of same 
bar. Repeat the bar, join to cen- 
ter of the 5 ps in ring, repeat the 
bar, join in last p of next bar, 3 
ps, join to first p of next bar, bar, 
3 ps, join in next p of same bar. 
Bar, 3 ps, join in the long p. Bar, 
3 ps, join in the first p of the next 
bar. Bar, 5 ps, join to second p of 
same bar. Bar, 3 ps, join to first 
p of next bar. Bar, 2 ps, join in 
next p of same bar. Bar, 5 ps, 
join over the first space with the 
2 threads. Bar, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 
knots, join to the first p of the 
next bar and the 2 threads, re- 
peat this last bar, join over the two threads in the 
next space. Repeat this bar, join at the base of the 
last bar. This completes the upper or the first wing. 

Directions for Making the Second, or Lovyer Wing 

HOLDING the wing up and the eye to the left, 
join the spool thread to the first p of bar. Space, 
ring, 3 knots, join to p of next bar, 3 knots, 2 ps 
with 3 knots between the ps, close. Leaving a little 
space, 5 short ps, join to center p of small ring, 3 
short ps, join to p of next bar. Turn eye down, bar, 
5 ps, join to center of the 5 short ps. Turn eye up, 
repeat this bar, join to the center p of the 5 ps of 
bar of the finished wing. Turn wing down, eye to 
the left, ring, 5 short ps, join to the first p of next 
bar, 11 short ps, close. 

Turn wing up, eye to the left. Bar, 5 ps, on the 
same bar, 3 knots, 3 ps with 3 knots between each 
p. join to the center of the 11 short ps. Without 
changing position of work, ring, 3 knots, join to the 
first p of bar, 3 knots, 1 long p, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, 
close. Tui-n the wing down. Repeat the bar, join 
in the long p, bar, 4 knots, 3 ps, with 4 knots between 
each p, join to the first of the 5 ps to the right. Turn, 
bar, 7 ps, join to the center p of first bar. Bar, 5 ps, 
join to the second p. Turn wing up and eye to the 
right. Ring, 9 ps, join to p of next bar, 3 ps, 1 long 
p, 3 ps, close. Turn wing down, eye to the right. 



Pngc !) 



bar, 3 knots, 3 ps, with 3 knots between each of the 
3 ps. Join to the long p. Repeat this bar without 
turning, ring, 3 knots, join to lirst p of i)ar, 3 knots, 
1 p, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, close. Join the spool 
thread to the top p of this ring, join to bar, leaving a 
space (that is, the bar between the 2 rings). Repeat 
the bar with 3 knots, 3 ps with 3 knots between the 
ps, join to the second p of ring (from the base). 
And over the two space threads, turn the wing up 



and the eye to the right. Turn wing down, eye to the 
left, bar, 7 ps. Join at little ring. Bar, 5 ps, join in 
the first p of bar, without turning, ring, 3 short ps, 
1 long p, 3 short ps, close, 7 ps, join to center p of 
ne.xt bar. Repeat the bar, join at the base of the ring 
and the bar. Cut off ends and tie a square knot. 
This completes the second or lower wing of butterfly. 
For making body, see page one. Repeat the rings 
to complete the butterfly. 




JVii.s' new ust; oj tatting on yu-t footing makes a beautiful trimming 



Narrow Tatted Edging for Net Ruffle 

IN this edge, a fine net was used, the tatting being 
made of a No. 50 crochet cotton. 

Start by making a group of 3 tiny rings, as 
follows, with the single thread: 2 knots, 1 p, 2 knots, 
1 p, 2 knots, close first ring. Two knots, catch into 
last picot of first ring, 2 knots, 1 p, 2 knots, close 
ring. Third ring. 2 knots, catch into final picot of 
second ring, 2 knots, 1 p, 2 knots, close ring. 

Fasten another thread at this point and continue as 
follows: Over double thread make 6 knots, 1 p, 6 knots. 

The group of small rings is repeated, then the 6 
knots, 1 p, 6 knots, on the double thread is again made. 



In making the groups of small rings, do not draw 
them up too closely together, as the effectiveness of 
the design is largely produced by these tiny rings 
having been spread out to form an edge on the net. 

If desired, the design may be reversed, i. e., the 
large semi-circles on the double thread may be used 
to form a scalloped edge, in which case the tiny groups 
of small rings should be drawn closely together to lie 
upon the net. 

This edge is suitable for handkerchiefs, infants' 
dresses, bonnets or sacks; for neckwear, fichus, un- 
derwear, aprons, vests, also for negligees and 
boudoir caps. 




A beautiful edge for neclavear, underwear, centerpieces, luncheon sets. Made from gold or 
silver thread, this would be very effective on a chiffon blouse or for trimming an evening dress 



Wide Tatted Edge Representing Groups of 
Flowers and Leaves 

WORKING with the single thread, start a leaf as 
follows: 7 knots, 1 p, 7 knots, 1 p, 7 knots, 1 p, 
7 knots, close ring, forming it into along oval care- 
fully. Do not try to pull ring up tightly; this would 
spoil the leaf-form. 

Now fasten in a second thread, and with first thread 
make 1 knot to hold second thread firmly in position. 

With first thread make the first flower in spray as 
follows, leaving the thread at least J-inch long, or 
long enough to enable you to fasten flower against 
the final picot in the oval leaf. Make the flower-ring 
with 2 knots, catch into the above-mentioned picot, 2 
knots, 1 p, 2 knots, close. Leave the thread sufli- 
ciently long to form a sort of stem to finish this flower; 
it should reach almost to the base or point of the 
leaf at the bottom of the group of flower-stems; now 
over the second thread, make 1 knot, after which you 
are ready to make the second flower in the group. 

The flowers are all made in same manner as first 
one, only instead of making the first picot, you catch 
thread through the final picot of the preceding flower. 



In each flower you make the stems a trifle longer, 
so that the central flower forms the apex of a tiny, 
cone-shaped spray. The final two flowers should 
have shorter stems. Between each flower, fasten 
the stems to the second thread with 1 knot. 

After making the final flower and returning to the 
second thread with a knot, you are ready to make an- 
other leaf at the base of the spray. 

Using the single thread, make 7 knots, catch into 
final picot of last flower, 7 knots. 1 p, 7 knots, 1 p. 
7. knots, close ring and shape carefully into leaf-shape 
of same size as first leaf. 

Now, on 2nd thread make 7 knots, catch into final 
picot of last leaf; 9 knots, 1 p, 7 knots. 

Now, form another leaf with the single thread: 7 
knots, catch into picot just made on double thread; 7 
knots, catch into central picot of previous leaf; 7 
knots, 1 p, 7 knots, close leaf, pulling into shape. 

Now make 1 knot over double or second thread, and 
from here start again to make the little spray of five 
flowers. Continue until you have the desired length. 

The edge of the net may be rolled when this edge 
is applied, or a tiny hem may be made. 



Page 10 




Medallion for collar 

MAKE a ring with 12 ps, 2 knots between each 
p. Beginning with 2 knots, and ending with 
the twelfth p. Close, leaving a space about 
J-inch. Hold the ring up and make a ring, with 5 
knots, 1 p, 1 knot, join to first p of large ring, 1 
knot, 1 p, 5 knots, close. Space, 3 knots, 13 ps, 
with 1 knot between each p, 3 knots, close. Turn 
this ring down. Space, 5 knots, join to p of small 
ring, 1 knot, join to the next p of first ring you 
made, 1 knot, 1 p, 5 knots, close. *rurn, 3 knots, 
join to first p of ring with the 13 ps, 1 knot, join to 
the next p of same ring, 7 ps, with 1 knot between 
each p, 3 knots, close. Repeat the small ring, mak- 
ing the 2 joins. Turn, space, 3 knots, join to first p 
of ring with the 7 ps, 7 ps, 3 knots, close. Turn, 
repeat the small ring, making the 2 joins. Turn, 
space, 3 knots, join to first p, 1 knot, join to next p, 
13 ps, with 1 knot between each p, 3 knots, close. 
Repeat the 2 rings with the 7 ps, and proceed as di- 
rected until you come to the last ring with the 7 ps. 
You will now make 5 ps, turn the work to the left and 
join as though you were working on the wrong side. 



Edge and 
Medallion for Collar 




This edge is viade from fine thread for the collar, 
but when developed in heavy cotton or linen it ivill 
be suitable for towels, pillow-cases and runners 

Without changing position of work, 1 knot, join to 
the last p and finish the ring, close. Cut off the 
shuttle, leaving quite an end. With a crochet hook 
bring the end of the thread through the small ring 
at the base (which is where the ring is closed). 
Then bring the thread up through the last ring you 
made, and then through the first p, crochet 1 stitch; 
cut off the end. This medallion might be used on a 
centerpiece, joined together to form yokes on under- 
wear or infants' dresses, or to edge a collar. 

Edge of collar * 

RING 4 knots, 1 p, 4 knots, 1 p, 4 knots, 1 p, 4 
knots, 1 p, close. Turn, leaving J-inch thread. 
Repeat 2 rings. Join third ring after first 4 knots, in 
last p of first ring, turn. Ring 4 knots, join in third 
p of second ring, 3 knots, 1 p, repeat 9 times, 7 
knots, close. Turn, leaving J-inch of thread, ring 4 
knots, join in last p of third ring, 4 knots, 1 p, 4 
knots, 1 p, 4 knots, close. Turn, leaving |-inch thread, 
ring 4 knots, join in last p of large ring. 4 knots, 1 p, 
4 knots, 1 p, 4 knots, 1 p, 4 knots, close. Turn, 
leaving J-inch of thread and repeat from beginning. 




An insertion for underivear, children's dresses, bags, aprons and towels 



ONE knot between each picot in these directions. 
Thread may be fine or coarse. 
Commence with the group of 3 rings, as fol- 
lows: (A) Make 6 knots, 5 ps, 6 knots, close; repeat 
twice, forming a group of 3 rings. Now, attach 
another thread and t)n it make 5 knots, 3 ps, 2 knots, 
make a ring with 6 knots, catch in final picot of last 
ring in group of 3, 3 knots, 1 p, 5 knots, close 
ring. On double thread make 2 knots, 3 ps, 2 knots; 
now form another small ring with 5 knots, catch into 
picot of first small ring, 3 knots, 1 p, 5 knots, close 
ring. On double thread make 2 knots, 3 ps, 2 knots. 
Make another ring with 5 knots, catch into picot of 
second small ring, 3 knots, 1 p, 5 knots, close ring. 
On double thread make 2 knots, 3 ps, 5 knots. Re- 
peat from (A) until the strip is sufficiently long. A 
duplicate strip should be made for the other side of 
the insertion. In joining the two strips — which 
should be done during the process of tatting the 



second strip — the three central picots of the central 
ring, in the group of three large rings, should be 
omitted; instead of making these picots in the dupli- 
cate strip, the thread should be caught through the 
picots in the first strip, always, of course, with 1 
knot between each picot. 

The outside edges may be finished with tatting, 
using two threads. Or it may be finished with simple 
chain-stitch in crochet. In either case, the worker 
must use suflJicient stitches to make the edge lie 
straight; this depends upon the worker, therefore no 
set number of stitches for the edge can be given. 

In each of the open spaces formed by the joining 
of the two strips of tatting, a spider-web is formed 
with the same thread used in the tatting. As may 
be seen from the illustration, this is formed by four 
threads running twice from side to side, the center 
then being woven with the needle, the thread run 
back, again and fastened off securely. 



Page 11 



A Most Dainty Yoke 
for Baby's Dress 



Directions for Making the Yoke with the 
Forget-mc-oots 

GET your starting point as directed. Two 
threads. With the shuttle tliread, seven 
Itnots, one picot, seven knots, close. With 
the spool thread, begin with the knot, make 
seven picots with one knot between each picot. 
With the shuttle, seven knots, join in picot of 
ring, seven knots, close. Make seven knots, one 
picot, seven knots, close. With the spool thread, 
holding the rings toward you, repeat the bar. 
Turn, and repeat the two rings (see narrow 
edge), to complete forget-me-not and so on. 

You will continue making the first part until 
you have eighteen bars, thus also making eigh- 
teen forget-me-nots. You are beginning at the 
back of the shoulder. Continue making these rows 
until you have three complete rows of the design. 
Then make one row with seven forget-me-nots, when 
you come down to the seventh flower, make three 
more of the half of the row, then make four com- 
plete rows for the center-front of the yoke, coming 
down the last half of the row, making only seven 
Complete flowers. Then make the three complete 
rows for the second shoulder part, making liars 
along the edge of the three complete rows until you 




The yoke reatlij to sew 171 

come to the row of bars. Make four complete rows 
for one-half of the back, then make the second back 
part. Make two complete rows for the band, making 
it long enough to overlay a distance; lap the band 
over to the second flower. Cut ofl^ the remaining 
ends. To close the back of the yoke, sew the but- 
tons on the same way, and make little loops to cor- 
respond. This yoke fits a child one year old. It is 
made of No. 60 cotton. 



* 'J 

The beginning of the yoke 




Showing the completed dress, for which any foundation pattern may be used. 
The cuffs are made by repeating the rows of forget-me-nots 



Baby's bonnet, sack, bib and 
slip dress4s may be finished 
with plain riiitj tatting No. 5 



Page n 










A luncheon set decorated in tatting 

Medallion for Centerpiece. Tvro Threads 

RING with the shuttle 3 ks, 3 ps with 3 ks be- 
tween the ps, ending with the 3 ks, close. Re- 
peat the ring, making the join in the first p. 
Repeat this ring. With the spool thread, bar, 7 ks, 1 
quite long p, 7 ks. With the shuttle, 5 ks, join to 
the first p, 5 ks, 1 p, 5 ks, 1 p, 5 ks, close. Ring, 5 
ks, join to the first p, 5 ks, 5 ps, with 1 k between each 
p, 5 ks, 1 p, 5 ks, close. Ring, 5 ks, join to the first 
p, 2 more ps, with 5 ks between each p, close. Bar, 
7 ks, join to p of bar, 7 ks. Repeat the 3 small rings, 
and then repeat the 3 large rings, ending with the 
bar. Join to the base of the first ring you made in 
this medallion. Tie a square knot, cut off the ends. 

THE possibilities of tatting for use in dining-room 
linens are illustrated in the luncheon 
set of centerpiece, plate-doily and bread- 
and-butter doily. The centerpiece is 
twenty- seven inches in diameter, edged 
with a simple border done in coarse 



Medallion. Two Threads 

NINE ks, one quite long p, 9 ks, close. 
Turn this ring toward you. Ring, 
5 ks, 1 p. 5 ks, close. Bar, 3 ks, 1 p, 3 
ks. Ring, 9 ks, join to the quite long 
p, 9 ks, close. Repeat the small ring 
and bar until you have made 7 large 
rings and 7 small rings, ending with the 
bar which you join to the base of the 
first large ring you made. Join the thread to the p of 
bar in the preceding row. Bar, 5 ks. Ring, 3 ks, 7 
ps with 1 k between each p, 3 ks, close. Bar, 5 ks, 
join at the base of the next large ring. Bar, 5 ks, 
join to the first p of ring, 3 ps, with 1 k between 




Used for finishing the edges 

thread, and two rows of tatted medallions arranged in 
clusters. The twelve-inch plate-doilies are decorated 
with the same edge and a single row of medallions, 
while the small doilies are simply finished with the 
edging. 

£dge for Centerpiece. One Thread 

RING, 5 ks, 3 ps with 5 ks between each p. Turn 
and repeat the ring. Turn, 5 ks, join to p, 5 ks, 
5 ps with 1 k between each p, 5 ks, 1 p, 5 ks, close. 5 
ks, join to p, 2 ps with 5 ks between each p, close. Bring 
the thread back through the first of the 3 rings which 
form the leaf and join. This is to bring the 3 rings 
close together, as they constitute the clover leaf. Now 
join the thread to the first p. Turn clover leaf down 
and repeat the first ring, making the join. 
Thus proceed fi'om the beginning until 
you have made the required length. A 
pretty edge for towels, pillow-cases, 
children 'sdresses, underwear and aprons. 



Another 'medallion for a 
luncheon set 



each p, join to p of small ring, 3 more 
ps, 5 ks. join to p of bar in the preced- 
ing row, 5 ks, 3 ps, with 1 k between 
each p, join to p of small ring. Thus 
proceed as directed until you come 
around to the ring you made in this row. 
After you have made the last join in 
the small ring, you will have to join 
the bar after making the 3 ps, to the 
first p of ring to correspond with the other side, 
then you will make the 5 ks. Cut off the threads, 
leaving quite an end, tie with a square knot after you 
have made the join at the base of the ring at the 
starting point on this row. 



Clover Edge. Two Threads 

FIVE ks, 1 p, 5 ks, 1 p, 5 ks, 
1 p, 5 ks, close. Beginning 
close to this ring, 5 ks, join to 
first p, 11 ks, 3 ps, with 1 k 
between each p, 11 ks, 1 p, 5 
ks, close. Beginning close to 
this second leaf of the clover, 
repeat the first leaf, making 
the join after the first 5 ks. 




Another simple edge for linens, to be made from 
coarse thread or fine 



Join, turn the clover leaf to- 
ward you and make a ring. 7 
ks, 1 p, 7 ks, close. With the 
spool thread make 3 ks, 3 ps, 
with 1 k between each p, 3 ks. 
Ring, 5 ks, 1 p, 5 ks, close. 
Repeat the bar. Then repeat 
the clover and then the bar. 
Thus proceed until you have 
made the required length. 



Page 13 




Directions for Making the Edge at the Side of 
the Runner 

ONE k, 6 ps without a knot between the ps, 1 k, 
close. Leaving a little space thread which you 
will use to sew on the runner, repeat the ring, mak- 
ing the join after the first knot. Always make a 
knot after each join. Repeat until you have the de- 
sired length. 

Medallion for Runner. Two Threads. 

MADE with No. 20 crochet cotton or coarse linen 
thread. If you wish to make the runner of tan 
linen, you may use the tan carpet warp. 

With the shuttle thread make a ring, 7 ks, 1 p 
quite long, 7 ks, close. With the spool thread make 
a bar, 5 ps with 1 k between each p. Ring, 3 ks, 13 
ps with 1 k between each p, 3 ks, close. Ring close 
to this ring, 3 ks, join to first p, 16 ps, with 1 k be- 
tween each p, 3 ks, close. Ring, 3 ks, join to 
first p, 13 ps, with 1 k between each p, 3 ks, close. 
Holding this clover leaf so that the center leaf points 
to the left, repeat the bar. Turn the work so that 
the ps of this bar point toward you, make 7 ks, join 
to the long p, 7 ks, close. Hold the clover leaf up 




and the small ring between the finger and thumb, re- 
peat the bar. (The picots must be opposite each 
other.) Without changing the position of your work, 
ring, 3 ks, 6 ps with one k between each p, join to 
the center of the 13 ps of the third leaf of the clover. 
Six more ps, 3 ks, close. This is the first leaf of 
the clover. Proceed to make the second leaf as di- 
rected. Then make the bar with the 5 ps, holding 
the center leaf of the clover to the left. Then repeat 
the small ring, making the join in the long picot, and 
thus proceed until you have made 5 small rings in the 
center, 5 complete clover leaves, and the first and 
second clover leaf of the sixth clover. 

You will now make the first and second leaf of the 
clover, the 3 ks, and the 6 ps of the third clover leaf. 
Now here is the place where you will make the join. 
You have one-half of the third clover leaf made, now 
join to the center picot of the very first leaf you made. 
To do this you will have to lay your double to the left. 
Just fold the work over, then make the remaining ps 
to finish the leaf and close. Leaving the work as it is, 
repeat the bar, then the small ring, then the last bar. 
Cut off both threads long enough to tie, which you 
will do with a square knot. Then cut off the re- 
maining ends close to the knot. 



Medallion for Centerpiece or 
Nut Baskets 

MAKE a ring with 10 ps, and 
1 k between each p, close. 
Leave a space thread almost J- 
inch and make a ring. Three ks, 
1 p, 2 ks, join to first of the 10 
ps, 2 ks, 1 p, 3 ks, close. Leav- 
ing a tiny space, make 2 ks, 
close. Leaving a tiny space, 
make a ring, 5 ks, with 3 ps, 
having 5 ks between each p, 
ending with the 5 ks, close. 
Space, 2 ks, close. Tiny space, 

5 ks, join to first p. 1.5 ps, without a knot between 
the ps, 5 ks, close. A tiny space, holding the ring you 
just made toward you, 2 ks, close. Tiny space, 3 ks, 
join to p of small ring, 2 ks, join to next p of center 
ring, 2 ks, 1 p, 3 ks, close. Tiny space, 2 ks, close. 
Tiny space, repeat the last ring, close, tiny space, 2 
ks, close, tiny space, repeat the small ring that is 
joined to center ring, close. Tiny space, 2 ks, close, 
tiny space, 5 ks, join to first p of the 15, 5 ks, 1 p, 5 
ks, 1 p, 5 ks, close. Tiny space, 2 ks, close. (The 
spaces are all tiny. ) Space, repeat the small ring that 
is joined to the center ring, close. Space, 2 ks, close. 
Space, repeat the ring with the 15 ps, close. Space, 




2 ks, close. Space, repeat the 
small ring joined to center ring, 
close. Space, 2 ks, close. Space, 
repeat the ring with 15 ps, 
space, 2 ks, close. Space, re- 
peat the ring with the 3 ps with 
5 ks, between the ps, close. 
Space, 2 ks, close. Repeat the 
ring with 15 ps, close. Space, 2 
ks, close. Space, repeat the 
small ring joined to center 
ring, close. Space, 2 ks, close. 
Space, repeat the ring with 15 
ps, close. Space, 2 ks, close. 
Space, repeat the ring with the 3 ps. Space, 2 ks, 
close. Space, repeat the small ring, join to center 
ring. Space, 2 ks, close. Space, repeat the ring 
with 15 ps, close. Space, 2 ks, close. Space, repeat 
the small ring joined to center ring, space, 2 ks, close. 
Space, repeat the ring with the 3 ps, space, 2 ks, 
close. Repeat the ring with 15 ps, close. Space, 2 
ks, close. Space, repeat the small ring joined 
to center ring, space, 2 ks, close. Space, repeat the 
ring with the 15 ps, making a join to the picot of 
first join of this row, thus closing the medallion. 
Space, 2 ks, join at the base of small ring around the 
center ring. These may be joined to form a yoke. 



Page H 




Suitable for night-gowns, cheTnises, children's dresses and novelties 



Forget-me-not Insertion and Beading. Two Threads. 

RING, 7 ks, 1 p, 7 ks, close. With the spool thread 
beginning with 2 ks and ending with two 2 ks, 
make bar with 5 ps with 1 k between each p. Re- 
peat the ring, join to p. Bar, 9 ks, 1 long p (a good 
J-inch), 9 ks. Repeat the ring with the 7 ks, 1 p, 7 
ks, close. Repeat the bar with the 5 ps, then repeat 
the ring. Thus proceed until you have the desired 
length. You will have to end the work with the 
second ring. This is necessary so that you will have 
a good finish at either end of your work if you wish 
to use the insertion for a garment that is open in the 
front. If you wish to close your work so that the in- 
sertion will be closed forming a circle, you have be- 
gun with the rings, therefore, you will have to end 
your work with the bar of 9 ks, 1 p, 9 ks. Then you 
will join the work at the base of the first ring you 
made. 

For insertion that is to be open, you will make a 
bar of 7 ps, then repeat the ring, join to p where 



you have already made a join. Then repeat the bar 
with the 5 ps, and then you will repeat the ring and 
join in the same place where you have already made 

2 joins. Thus you will have 4 rings in all. Then 
bar, 9 ks, join to long p. 9 ks, and then proceed work- 
ing the rings and the bars until you come to the end 
of your work. Tlien finish with a bar of 7 ps, join 
to base of ring. Tie with a square knot, cut off the 
spool thread only. Now with the shuttle thread only, 
you will make the rings at the top and lower edge of 
the insertion. Join your thread to the first picot of 
the bai-. Ring, 3 ks, 6 ps with 1 k between each p, 

3 ks, close. Leaving a little space, join thread to 
third picot. Repeat (making the join in ring after 
the 3 knots) to the first picot of the first ring, join to 
fifth picot. Then make two more rings, join to the 
first picot of bar, repeat as directed from the begin- 
ning of this row, until you come to the end of the 
last bar with the 5 ps. Then make the rings as di- 
rected at the other end of the insertion. 




Ttto Dainty Patterns in Tatting for Handkerchiefs 



Blue and White 

THIS dainty little pattern of tatting is done in blue 
and white No. 70 thread. Wind the shuttle with 
white and tie it to the blue. Ring, 5 ks, 1 p, 5 ks, 
draw up, chain with the blue 10 ks, draw tight, again 
ring 5 ks, 1 p, 5 ks, and so on until the desired length, 
then go back and fasten in first picot of first ring, 
chain 5 ks, 1 p, 5 ks, and so on and fasten in eveiy 
picot. This design may be used as a beading on under- 
wear, babies' dresses, bonnets or children's clothes, 
or, in fine thread, for joining lace and insertion. 



Lavender and White 

WIND the shuttle with lavender No. 70, tie to 
ball of white No. 70, using white for the chain 
or second thread, ring, 5 ks, 1 p, 5 ks, draw up, chain 
10 ks, ring, 5 ks, join in picot of first ring, 5 ks and 
draw up. So on until 4 little rings are joined to- 
gether; in the third chain make a picot between the 
five double, chain 2 ks, 1 p, 5 ks, 1 p, 2 ks, ring, 5 
ks, 1 p, 5 ks, draw up chain, 5 ks, join to picot in last 
chain, 5 ks, ring, 5 ks, join in picot of last ring and 
so on. 




Beading-insertion with One Thread 

THREE ks, 6 ps, with 1 k between each p, 3 ks, 
close. Leaving a little space, make 2 ks, close. 
Another little space, 2 ks, close. Repeat the ring. 
Turn the first ring you made up or from you, a little 



space, 2 ks, close. A little space, 2 ks, close. Re- 
peat the ring joining after the first 3 ks to the first 
p of ring. Thus proceed until you have made the re- 
quired length. This is very pretty for underwear 
and children's dresses and it is very easy to do. 




Buy a "Bob-o-link" 
Two-Piece Tatting Shuttle 



i 



Here is the shuttle that's easy to wind. Made of 
two pieces with tubing centers which telescope. 

To wind, pull sides apart and wind thread as easily 
and quickly as on a spool. 

Then put together; the sides hold hrm and the 
tubing center keeps the points exactly opposite. 
Can't get out of "fix." 

The "Bob-o-link" easy-to-wind shuttle will make 
your tatting a// pleasure. An iWea/ gift, too. 

Several styles and sizes : German Silver 25c; Sterling 
Silver $1 to $3; soHd gold $10 to $20. If your 
jeweler hasn't the genuine "Bob-o-link" two-piece 
tatting shuttle, write us. 

EISENSTADT MFG. CO. 

Manufacturing Jewelers 
ST. LOUIS, MO. 





014 083 261 




For Tatting and Crocheting 

From experience you know that Corticelli is the best silk for sewing and embroid- 
ering. We now invite YOU to try CMC Cordonnet — the new crochet cotton 
made by the Corticelli Silk Mills, which has a snowy whiteness, a sparkling lustre, and a round, even 
thread equal to any cotton made. CMC Cordonnet is best for lace-making, crocheting and tatting. 
Look for the "kitten head" trade-mark. Put up in three sized balls as follows. 

\^orticelli l^jLercerized V^'ordonnet 

Corticelli Mercerized Cordonnet Art. 92 ( Gold label ) is put up full n ci{;lit 
7 10 o7. ('011^)0 on a hall (the same as D M C) and is made in Snow White in 
sizes 3, 5, 10, 15, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, and SO. Sold by dry goods stores. 

Corticelli Mercerized Cordonnet Art. 66 (Silver label) is made in Snow 
White in sizes 3 to 100 and in Ecru in sizes 3 to 70; also in these colors in sizes 10, 
30, 50, and 70 only: Pink No. 291; Beauty Pink No. 294; Light Blue No. 20S; 
Blue No. 213; Yellow No. 345, and Wistaria No. 387. Linen No. 355 is made 
in sizes 3 to 70 inclusive. Price, white or colors, 10c per ball. By mail Ic extra. 

8^" Corticelli Mercerized Cordonnet in white and 
colors has more yards per ball than most other makes. 

Corticelli Mercerized Cordonnet Art. 43, esjie- 
ciallvfor tatting, a STiiall hall containing 1/S oz. of cottiin 
in size 70 in white and the following six colors : Light Blue 
No. 208; Blue No. 213; Pink No. 291 ; Beauty Pink No. 
294; Yellow No. 345 and Wistaria No. 387. Alsointhe 
following shaded colors: SlKuled Blue No. 283, Shaded 
Pink No. 284, Shaded Yellow No. 285, and Shaded Wis- 
taria No. 287. Price per ball, 5c. By mail Ic extra. 






Made at the Cui ticelli Silk Mille. 
Florence. Mass. 



Corticelli Crochet and Tatting Silk 



A smooth, rounil thre:Kl, very high lustre 
m.ade in a large number of beautiful colors. 

This is the silk to use for tatting. It is 
also largely used for crocheting neckties, 
piu'ses, betided hags, etc., unless one pre- 
fers Corticelli Purse Twist, which is put up 
on long black spools. , Select your favorite 
color from this list and order from your 
dealer. If he does not carry Corticelli in 
stock do not accept ,'i substitute, but send 
direct to us and we will tell you where you 
can obtain "Corticelli. " 




Popular Colors in Corticelli Crochet Silk 



Wild Rose Pink 
Old Rose 
Dark Old Rose 
New Rose 
Laurel Green 
Fern Green 
Black 

Dark Lavender 
Violet 
Old Gold 
Rose 

Persian Blue 
Blue White 
Pure White 



1192 Cream White 

1193 Cream 
1134.5 Champagne 
1124 Pongee 

749 5 Yale Blue 

905 Baby Blue 

792 Copenhagen Blue 

91.^2 Navy Blue 
1092.4 Apricot 
llfie Platinum Gray 
1076.4 Helen Pink 
1060 Scarlet 
1062 Cardinal 



Princess Pearl Crochet Cotton 

A full size, lofty, smooth and lustrous thread of just the right spin and 
twist to produce, the best results in crocheting and knitting bags, belts, 
sweaters, shawls, scarfs, collars and slippers. 

Made in these beautiful colore: Blue No. 'M; Ecru No. 358; Pink No. 300; Deep 
Pink No. 237; Blue No. 433; Brown No. 335; Green No. 46; Lavender No. 392; Yel- 
low No. 344; Cream No. 476; Gray No. 384; Linen No. 355; Baby Blue No. 423; Tan 
No. 357; Light Yellow No. .342; Light Green No. 47; Black No. 470; White No. 474; 
Dark Green No. 4.5; Rose Pink No. 239; Dark Lavender No. 93; Dark Brown No. 
337; Golden Orange No. 468; Baby Pink No. 235. Put up in two sized balls: Art. 
453, No. 3 coarse and Art. 455, No. 5 fine, a big ball containing iH oz. cotton each. 
Price per ball 25c; L,y mail 3c e.xtra. 

Art. 83 and Art. 85, email balls containing- '^ oz. of cotton, inade in colore 34, 46, 
93, 235. 237. 300. 335. 337, 344, 355. 357, 358. 384. 423. 470. 474. and 476. 

Instruction Books 

Corticelli "Lessons in Crochet." Book No.l. beautifully illustrated, with simple in- 
structions telling just how to take each stitch, showing new designs in edgings, inser- 
tione. boudoir caps, scarfs, ehawls. sweaters, nut baskets, lingerie hats, etc. Price 10c. 

Corticelli "Lessons in Tatting," Over 150 original tatting models especially for those 
who love this beautiful form of needlework. Complete instructions for unusual designs 
in edginj-rs, insertions, merlallions, luncheon sets, doilies, nut baskets, tabic scarfs, 
candleshades, children's aresses. lingerie waists, nightgowns, collars, yokes, etc. 
Postage paid, for lOc. 

Corticelli "Lessons in Crochet." Book No. 2, will be issued October 1. 1916. Beautiful models are now being designed for it 
and will include the very newest ideas in filet and other forms of crochet, with plenty of holiday suggestions. Price 10c. postage paid. 
Corticelli instruction books are sold in nearly all Art Needlework Departments, or will be mailed on receipt of price. 

CORTICELLI SILK MILLS, 70 Nonotuck St., Florence, Miss. 




Art 



y 



^ym^ 



Ill mil 1 1 mil III ill 
014 083 261 




Hollingei 
pH S3 
MOl Run F03 



/^ 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



iijiiiiiiiijiiiiiiiiiiiilliiililliiii 

014 083 261 3 • 



Hollinger 

pH 8J 

Mffl Run F03-2245 



